ESPN.com recently relaunched a new version of its front page that uses CSS for formatting nearly all of the content. The Microsoft Network-specific content is still contained in a table.
The point is that ESPN is the first major non-techie site to make this move. But it doesn't mean that the site is 100% accessible, so it leaves something to be desired. But they are definitely moving in the right direction.
So now maybe all of those CSS-layout skeptics will pay heed. It can be done. You can still have a lot of content, including graphics on your page. And it can look good.